2/15/2015. I've been exploring the interior of Bali for three weeks now. While I expected the Hinduism, I didn't know there'd be an equal belief in animism.
Take our villa for example. After it was built several years ago, it had to be consecrated. First, a cleric ID'd a propitious date based on lunar cycle and water flow. Then a high priest came with a live chicken, who was sacrificed on the spot. There was a lot of chanting.
The American owner of our place said that in Bali illness and accidents really do strike people who scoff at the higher laws of the natural world. Last November he was here supervising construction of a cottage he had added to the property. One day he wiped out on his motorcycle and broke two ribs. The locals pulled him aside and said, "you're sleeping in that unblessed space, aren't you?" Sure was.
The Balinese have long maintained that their island is innocent, self-sufficient, created perfect. That tourists visit because it is whole. The older locals, especially, believe that there's no one sicker than moderns from the industrialized world.
My new friends here say that no matter the generation, people born and raised in the interior of Bali think that the world beyond can bring negative energy. Like expats or developers who come with the notion that they must have a swimming pool. The local thinking goes that Bali with its natural features has no need for man-made water bodies. Evil spirits love pools because they are unnatural. Which is why our cook, Maya, makes extra offerings to protect the property which she believes is particularly vulnerable given its many pools--one for lap swimming, a decorative one with waterfall, a reflecting pool, as well as a two-level waterfall inside the house itself. You would never find any of these features in a traditional Balinese home.
Here is how the water flows in the four channels around our villa.
Four channels: the two above show the water moving away from the house, while the two channels below show the flow toward the house.
This is an exorcist drama that's very popular around here. The locals believe that it's based on actual events from 11th C. Java. The evil spirit, the witch on the left, struggles with the lion of universal goodness.
But some archetypes are universal. When Max saw this painting, he said, "Hey, that looks just like Voldemort when he comes out of the back of Professor Quirrell's head!"
Rebecca Trafton
February 15
Dearest Jayne,
I loved this entry. In fact, I truly love receiving a new post and read them several times with delight.
I've lost touch with your schedule and have no idea how much longer you'll be in Bali, but I hope it's for a while, as I love imagining you there.
China next, right?
And Amanda? Things going more smoothly?
Tomorrow is a Holden morning, each of which I savor, and Tuesday is my all-day class-- training to be a volunteer naturalist in Boulder's Open Space and Mountain Parks program. (Translation: I am incredibly lucky to have been selected for this highly competitive and totally volunteer position and I so want to shine-- with so much to learn about this environment so different for me. Would that it were Cheat Mountain!)
It's been a bit of a down winter for me-- and this seems odd as I have lots of wonderful time with my children and grandchildren, long walks with a beautiful golden retriever in the mountains so near my house (you know), and so much for which to be grateful. The days are getting longer and I think I'm on the upswing, but this is why I've been less than the best correspondent. That said, I've loved these regular communications and hope they'll continue to come frequently.
Back to the New York Times Style magazine before Downton Abbey. Snow is falling fast.... I'm already looking forward to playing in the snow with Emi tomorrow morning.
Sending each of you so much love, but especially you, of course,
Rebecca