2/7/2015. My friend Barbara back home in NYC told me about these guys in Bali who carve water buffalo skulls. One call led to another to another until one day I stood in a gas station driveway at noon waiting to meet a stranger on a motorcycle. A friendly young man named Tonik picked me up and drove me to meet his friend Kadek, pictured here. These guys and their friends make art from buffalo skulls--the byproducts of livestock death from farms in Java.
Kadek guides me through his studio and shows me the stages of his craft. I see how buffalo has a nice wide plane for knifework. He talks a bit enviously about a friend who recently found a monkey skull in north Borneo and is carving that right now. But in order to sell it, the guy will have to apply to the Indonesian government and show proof that it was found on the forest floor.
As if the gallery of intricately carved heads wasn't enough, Kadek gives me a demo. Using a very small knife and the world's tiniest electric buffer, he made a skull materialize out of antler! Even though it was just the size of a grape, when he was done fifteen minutes later we were both covered with a fine film of powder.
Here are some samples of his work and those of his friends:
"Poured resin imitations are very convincing. If you aren't sure, turn it around. The teeth never lie."
"...teeth and tusks never lie."
Rebecca Trafton
February 7
Dearest Jayne,
What a fun (and eye-opening) entry to read on a quiet Friday night at home. I'll be getting up early to go snowshoeing in Rocky Mountain National Park (a first!), while you are examining carved skulls in one studio, tasting rich fruit and nut and ice concoctions at a market stand, holding your breath at the less-than-desired behavior from 1,2, and 3.... But right now I'll just think of the carved skulls, and you as the perfect student.
Please know these entries are bringing me so much pleasure. I feel quite certain that Colette and Helen and all the others are savoring (and anticipating) as am I. I'm sure they're writing much more wise and thoughtful responses.... but they aren't going snowshoeing tomorrow!
So much love to you and yours,
Rebecca
Jane B.
February 7
Those are breathtaking, Jayne. So incredibly beautiful. How could you NOT buy one?!! Really. I don't think I've ever seen such intricate, beautiful cravings. Wow. It sounds like you had a terrific experience. What a beautiful guy Kadek is. And oh so talented. Thank you for sharing the fabulous photos, Jayne. PS. I do have to say that tiny skull was a wee bit creepy 😐
Barbara
February 7
Oh my goodness! I'm so happy to meet you, Kadek! We are a united tribe, who, as you say, "believe that death should not be seen as hideous or regarded with fear, but the opposite." In fact, as you and Jayne visiting with each other, I was in my training program in NYC, continuing to learn how to be with people in the final stages of dying. I intend to come to Bali someday. And I am coming with an empty suitcase, so be prepared! 🙂 In the meantime, I send you all of my warmest wishes. Jayne - thank you for following up on this beautiful connection!